El Rincón de Antonio

Antonio González has a heroic artistic spirit. He can be considered a kamikaze of modern haute cuisine. In an ambience that does not lend itself to experimentation or sapid sophistications, he never ceases to introduce novelties that produce unknown, even slightly shocking sensations. His imagination seems to bubble over almost uncontrollably. Surprising, complex and conceptually noteworthy articulations that are always exquisite, especially when he projects delicate flavors through a medium of sauces and garnishes that are, in general, immaculate. The guest appreciates the intellectual level as much as the natural gifts of the chef in each proposal.
Among the most recent arrivals, the tomato emulsified with Zamoran bread and olive oil served with Bay of Biscay anchovies and crowned with a frosting made from the same cream. His lucid, conceptual, haute cuisine version of salmorejo is undoubtedly the finest that one can find in Córdoba, perhaps even all of Andalusia. If the tuna terrine constituted a delightful obligation at this spot before, thanks to its juiciness, flavor and clarity, it is even more so now, served with even finer gems than in past seasons, empowering the magnanimity of the main ingredient: garlic soup lightly infused with Zaratán Iberian sausage and foie gras oil. The chef attempts a death defying maneuver and comes out of it triumphantly: cod filet, immaculate, iridescent, impeccable slices, served together with a thick broth of Almeida morcilla (blood sausage) and chopped Zamoran sausage, which manage to not detract anything from the fish. The Iberian pork tongue with suckling pig ear confit and Huelva curry langoustine is a marvelous display of flavor and complexity, sapid and technical.
The authentic proposals… An array of regional flavors and customs: marinated meats, which change depending on the season and prevailing whims, alongside cured meats from Zamora–a pleasant and refreshing option for snaking or a meal. The salmon stuffed with La Setera goat cheese, served with fried pine nuts and quince vinaigrette constitutes a display of flavor and nuances that sides more with taste than with clarity. We must raise our voices in order to speak appropriately of the Fuentesaúco garbanzos al ajoarriero (a sauce of olive oil, egg, fried garlic and paprika), served with seasonal mushrooms, it is a dish that, for quality, preparation and pleasure stands aside the finest one can find in Castilla-León. And what can one say about the legendary Aliste beef cheeks prepared low-temperature and bathed in a Toro wine reduction, boasting the final addition of a potpourri of Sierra de la Culebra mushrooms which drowns you with its gelatinous succulence. But wait! We mustn’t forget the assorted plate of Zamoran cheeses, offered in a separate section on the menu.