DOM

Alex Atala is a name written in gold letters in the history of Brazilian cuisine. The reason? He is the first chef in Brazil to attain international recognition. He has two immense honors to attach to his career: to have begun the development of modern haute cuisine in Brazil and to identify it clearly with its “terroir”. And a third, which is derived from the first two: to lead an innovative movement to which several young chefs have adhered, as well as possibly kick-starting a sharply idiosyncratic gastronomic power. This last goal, if we are realistic, has yet to be accomplished. It is not something that can be improvised; it takes many years of effort and perseverance to bring about a social change, to educate a public (although it seems that this same public is showing a remarkable aptitude toward new culinary trends), opening up new restaurants like this one, which attracts the most cosmopolitan, chic crowd in the city. In short, we are talking about a true icon of a new era, perhaps even a new reality in its embryonic stage.
His dishes bring together exotic flavors. They embody an originality derived from the use of indigenous ingredients. The product is bursting with unprecedented sensations, without references, earth-shaking… strengthened by his constructive fashion, very much in keeping with the prevailing philosophy of contemporary haute cuisine, including some creations that employ techniques that are in the gastronomic limelight: spheres, airs, foams… A symbiosis between reaffirmation of an earthly paradise, using unknown raw materials, and the heavenly doctrine of modern philosophy expressed with exultant color and a dash of exhibitionism, in consonance with the Brazilian identity. Spectacle and impact, with notable results in the flavor department.
The house has some legendary dishes, like the oysters breaded with charming little pearls of marinated tapioca, the immaculate, stunning mushroom consommé perfumed with Amazonian flowers, the honorable sautéed foie gras topped with a wild, crispy crust of rice and hazelnut, crowned with cambuci chili ice cream, all swimming in a consommé of smoked bonito, or the succulent, buttery lamb shoulder with white wine and rosemary, among others.
Among the newest arrivals, the salads were especially of interest. One example was comprised of zucchini strips with Norway lobster, scallops, pine nuts, sprouts and a tangerine sauce, boasting a marvelous purity of flavor as well as a profound, tempered imagination. A little more groundbreaking was the Zanzibar apple with flowers, baby squid and a dash of soy. The pupunha hearts of palm fettuccine with tomato, seared tuna and squid roll expressed exuberant delicacy. The liquid coconut risotto with mint oil, nori seaweed and palm tree oil constitutes a masterful technique bursting with incisive nuances. And we could continue on with a string of proposals, always polished, some more virtuous than others.