Mollusks in the fisherman's net
restaurante@akelarre.net
Pedro Subijana continues to accumulate experience, intellectual maturity, serenity… Yet at the same time each year, an impetuous and imaginative young spirit surges from within him, intermingling his desire to play, to live, with an enormous backlog that helps to build his identity after so many years. And so, once again he returns to the pages of this section, on this occasion with a dish that captures all of the qualities stated above. From an aesthetic point of view it represents a fisherman’s net pulled up from marine depths filled with mollusks. From an elemental perspective it is a dish comprised of rice, vegetables and incredible mollusks.
The rice is converted into pasta that, once dehydrated and conveniently manipulated, takes on the shape of a net. The vegetables are presented in the form of a borage cream at the bottom of the dish, simply carved, blanched and placed with the mollusks, along with some seaweed, various flowers and dried shrimp, which give it the visual effect of the “remains” that the net picks up along the way. And lastly, after all the playful visual effects, we come to the authentic truth about the dish: an oyster of the highest quality, a meaty rock mussel, juicy and flavorful, impeccable cockles, a delicious scallop and an uncommonly good razor clam. All these elements are opened over the charcoal grill, served raw but slightly hot. In this way they preserve their natural purity, texture and power, the intrinsic flavor of each mollusk. They are luxuriously staged, in keeping with the gastronomic decadence that they represent.
The Recipe
Ingredients
For the Net:
50 g cooked rice
25 g dried shrimp
10 g seaweed
To top the net:
4 borage flowers
8 strands of seaweed
For the rice cream:
100 g water
50 g rice
20 g onion
2 g garlic
200 g mollusk water
For the borage cream:
25 g borage leaves
50 g water
2 g Resource
For the borage stalks:
2 borage stalks
For the mollusks:
4 oysters
4 razor clams
4 scallops
8 cockles
8 rock mussels
Preparation
For the Net:
Blend the cooked rice and strain. Place in a pastry bag with a fine tip and paint the nets over a Silpat mat, topped with the shrimp and seaweed. Dry in the oven at 50ºC for 5 hours. At service time fry in hot oil and top with the borage flowers and seaweed strands.
For the rice cream:
Cut the onion and garlic into a brunoise and sweat. Add the rice and water and cook in the oven at 250ºC for 13 minutes. Blend with the Thermomix together with the mollusk water. Set aside.
For the borage cream:
Blanch and cool the borage leaves, blend in the Thermomix, season to taste, strain and thicken with the Resource.
For the borage stalks:
Place the borage stalks in the steamer at 119ºC for 0.4 minutes. Remove from the steamer, clean and briefly grill.
Presentation
Place the borage cream on the bottom of the plate, top with the rice cream and crown with an oyster. Open the mollusks over the char-grill, remove from their shell and place over the rice cream, together with the borage stalks. Finish by adding the net, covering everything.
Para los tallos de borraja:
Se meten los tallos de borraja en la vaporera a 119ºC durante 0,4 minutos. Al sacar de la vaporera se limpian y se marcan en la plancha.
Presentación:
Sobre la base del plato se coloca la crema de borraja, se cubre con la crema de arroz y encima se coloca la ostra. Se abren los moluscos sobre las brasas de carbón, se desconchan y se colocan sobre la crema de arroz, junto con los tallos de borraja. Por último se pone la red, cubriendo todo.