Honey, Flowers and Pistachio
bulli@elbulli.com
Not to offend anyone, though it may be hard to believe (and there are many who do not want to believe it), but Ferran Adrià is capable of imagining – better yet, creating – more and better dishes than all the chefs in the world combined. We do not make this extreme statement to undermine the work of others, but simply to clarify the mental magnitude of the most visionary of all chefs, and not just at this moment in time, but throughout history. Every year he completely renovates his repertoire: more than a hundred proposals are created through the development of four or five concepts and techniques that constitute the foundation of the season’s work. From there he detracts or adds, intensifies or decreases, mixes, combines… offering distinct flavors, parings, textures, colors, shapes… unlimited possibilities. Like this gastronomic garden that opens a new world of sapid fragrances.
Ferran uses twelve to fourteen flowers in this dish – an astonishingly beautiful creation. Each flower is tasted slowly and completely separate from the others. It is a treatise on the perception of fresh aromas and perfumed flavors, and one that awakens fascinating sensations in the mind and on the palate. The guest goes from flower to flower, with the common thread of a honey and caramelized rosemary air that sweetens the experience in an ethereal, subtle way. Pistachios in different textures are hidden underneath, at the base of the plate, like an invisible surprise, more dense and with greater consistency than the rest, but also sweet and with a light bitter touch. The only conclusion is, quite simply, that it is a brilliant formula. It is hard to say whether it is a salad with a dessert flare, or a dessert served like a plate of salad, or if the symbiosis makes it impossible to discern that which goes beyond known culinary excellence.