Gian Piero Vivalda is third-generation heir to a trattoria converted by his father, Renzo, to one of the most emblematic establishments for Piamontesa cuisine, as well as one of the most successful—the 50 seats per service required to fill the dining room are all but guaranteed. At the age of forty-one he is overseeing a gradual evolution in accordance with the spirit of the establishment and the adoration he feels and shows for his homeland—values elevated to the most venerated refinements. At the same time, we observe in his work an obsessive passion for the finest local ingredients as well as for traditional flavors, delivered exquisitely and with refined methods. We insist, because in very few occasions we have so appreciated, on the elegance and the harmony this chef conveys and, above all, the solidity entailed in each of his formulas. As a consequence, we find ourselves before a cuisine with roots, respectful of history with a desire to capture our gustative memory—values always interpreted from an evolving perspective, sensible and meticulous, guaranteeing a high level of enjoyment from his dishes without provoking uncontainable exclamations of admiration.
The treatment of certain delicacies achieve special relevance, among which are worth mentioning the frog legs—wild, thick, simple and masterfully fried to be crunchy and juicy, untraceable-- Another dazzling speciality is the eel, served in two ways on the same plate: marinated with vegetables, a sweet-sour touch and ginger on the one hand; and in the form of a torchon on the other hand, as if it were an impeccably perfumed circular terrine—sweet, meaty, gelatinous; a pleasure. There are also the über-famous escargots from the Alps, giant, plump, wild in flavour and juicy, seasoned with leek and apple; they have substance in their simplicity and are but one of many interesting formulas they prepare. When served with hazelnuts, Jerusalem artichoke crisps and purée as well as white truffle, they reach an absolute magnitude. Let’s say it clearly: these are the best escargots we had ever tasted. Two simple pasta dishes, both homemade and unquestionable: tortelli stuffed with leek and buttered potatoes; and the plin, the typical dish from the Piedmont region, which contains grinded capon from Morozzo and ox from Carrù swimming in a generous and substantial capon broth. A prodigious stew and pasta soup that might be served as unique course. The hand-washed veal tripe millefeuille, cut in the shape of noodles and stewed with leeks and Cervere onions has made history, and deservedly so. With multiple other offerings, like the raw beef tenderloin mixed with leeks, pepper and olive oil, that is a local steak tartare, and the very noble capon –from Morozzo, of course (the leeks are also supposed to have been grown in Cervere)–, served in two doneness with crunchy vegetables and mashed potatoes, in addition to some splendid petit fours.
In short, Gian Piero Vivalda is one of the greatest testimonies of the Italian culinary culture; a man who venerates it, consecrates it and refines it with a high dose of erudition.
