Char-grilled baby squid with a touch of spice sea lettuce broth with black shallots

More than one guest has been known to ask what is in this dish. The answer: lucidity. Josean Martínez Alija is a chef capable of marking a difference by establishing the message and the components. He preserves the identity of the baby squid here completely, using small specimens in the summer and, when none are available, rings of begi haundi (larger squid). He then gives the dish a few graceful touches, including a lightly smoked flavor that intensifies the rustic impression and a light spice from the garlic and cayenne pepper. A lucidity that goes beyond the main ingredient and into the...