A disciple of Georges Blanc and Alain Passard, Nicolas Pourcheresse took over an unknown restaurant a few years ago at the foot of the highway that runs from Lons-le-Saunier to Chalon, and he transformed it into a “high tech” establishment, chock full of ethnic and artistic references. Here, the chef proposes a personal, daring cuisine, often with a tendency to divest the superfluous of a dish, as is the case with these small spider crabs filled with mousse of hake and served as tapas.