We have always been drawn to Joël Robuchon, a clairvoyant and methodical man who became the most perfect chef in the world. He made history with a never-surpassed archangelic virtuosity; for having developed his unmistakable style of circular preparations on the plate; for having given the world great recipes that have been expanded upon by hundreds of gourmet restaurants…and for so much more.
One day, he decided to free himself from the pressure of having to achieve a 9.75 table after table, something always expected of the master. After a time of reflection, of focusing on TV shows and writing books, on evaluations and consulting, etc., he returned some years ago to create something new: L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon (5, rue de Montalembert - 75007 Paris. Phone: 00.33.0142225656. €100-150.
Well into the spring of 2004, Joël took another step in his “prêt-à- porter” formula for classical, updated and up-to-date haute cuisine. Inspired in L’Atelier, La Table, a contemporary upscale bistro, was born: a stylish and functional establishment that serves elaborate cuisine that is practical and compelling. What stands out above all is know-how: intelligence in the approach, great professionalism in the kitchen and in service, meticulous work… a Joël Robuchon organization. Rigor, wisdom and enough ambition to make this famous chef the world’s number one for a decade. From these establishments, he has developed a chain that brings them to major cities worldwide, each with its own identity.
Now the restaurant has been operating for a few years, La Table de Joël Robuchon has reached its gastronomic fulfilment. Here you will find an utterly virtuous timeless cuisine.
To start with, the grapefruit gelatin served with an avocado cream and some coriander leaves gives you interesting palatal and tactile counterpoints. A notable high point is the fresh foie gras cooked au torchon, which, like all of the other dishes, benefits from painstaking ingredient selection and impeccable technique, accompanied by this or that depending on the season, such as white peach compote and Szechuan pepper. In the same utterly erudite, honourable and unshakably exquisite line, do not miss the poached egg topped with a majestic caviar and a pastry brick julienne (like potato threads) laid upon a sour cream with smoked salmon cubes. To confirm the style and the perfection of the house, there is nothing like the morels, splendid, jubilant, stewed with Arbois wine and accompanied with farfalle (bow tie shaped pasta), al dente green asparagus from Provence and a foamy and creamy sauce that transmits the taste and the treatment of the mushroom. The grilled foie gras with peeled beans, artichoke, rugula and two textures of bacon (crunchy slices and stewed julienne) is definitely superb.
Among the fish options are two well executed dishes that are sufficiently thought out and prepared: the super famous red mullet filets with olive oil and eggplant-cilantro caviar, and the St. Pierre, cooked in the pan with the light acidity of lime along with tomato, shallot and basil.
The meats are masterful: the beef sweetbreads are tender and sybaritic, aromatized with laurel and served with a stuffed chard leaf; the buttery Pyrenees suckling lamb chops are exquisite with thyme flowers and the famous mashed potatoes with caramelized garlic and meat broth; and the quail shows great character and contrast, served with caramelized foie gras and famed mash potatoes, in this case with truffles.
We can also mention other very substantial proposals that have been successful for years, like the spider crab laid on a fennel cream with fine shellfish gelatin; or like the crunchy crayfish en papillote with basil.
Do not miss the very technical and utterly refined red fruit meringue stuffed with strawberries and accompanied with yoghurt!
In short, a practical, urban and timeless haute cuisine, with the seal and guarantee of the great Robuchon, in a state of culinary grace.
