The length and importance of Paco Roncero’s career allow us to associate his cuisine with other cooks’. Although the presence of dishes inspired by Adrià’s concepts and proceedings was very evident on his menu at the beginning, today, the cuisine proposed by this elegant restaurant located in the centre of Madrid stands out on its own and is marked by Roncero’s personal identity. However, as in any chef’s work, other influences always exist.
The offer is structured into a series of funny one-bite snacks aimed at whetting the guest’s appetite before the arrival of the main courses, which follow a different logic. These snacks have a very recreational character, and so do the tapas, both the classical ones and their versions, as well as the latest creations. An example of the formers is the very successful and delicious salmon belly marinated in miso, now contrasted with a refreshing bouquet of pineapple, cucumber and fennel salad. Regarding the latters, let’s mention the combination between the briefly cooked scallops, beet and yoghurt. The small sea anemones with garlic flower and iodized broth, which reinforce their marine taste, remain unchanged. The menu keeps on offering classical and consecrated dishes of the house, such as the butter beans with clams and green sauce or the lobster gazpacho. As long as fish are concerned, the chef continues reinterpretating some classical recipes and plays with the garnishes, like the impeccable grouper served onto a green bean cream with stripes of the vegetable. Regarding the meat section, Roncero also proposes sharp, marked and powerful flavours, such as the king quail, perfect, with truffle cream and black olive earth; or the wagyu beef ribs. A special attention is given to game, too, with personal versions of classical dishes, such as the hare “à la Royale”. Among the desserts, the chef’s tribute to Madrid is worth mentioning: a combination between the violet sweets from the capital city, the strawberries from Aranjuez, the anise from Chinchón and a wafer.
All the rest is up to a very high level, starting with the wines, whose service is exemplary. The dining room staff is a luxury. In summer, the outdoor dining room, overhanging the Alcalá street, is a privilege. On the whole, this restaurant is one of the best references in the Spanish capital.
