Drolma

Our recent visits have been the most notable of those we have made to this distinguished restaurant, one of the most luxurious in Spain. This does not mean that Fermí Puig’s cuisine has changed; he remains loyal to his style, which fits him like a glove—he feels it and developed professionally with it—and which, for greater coherence, connects well with this elegant, even sumptuous establishment’s clientele. Of course, some things are different; not the essentials, which are still excellent, unique; nor the philosophy, conventional but updated; the execution, however, is more careful, perhaps because the team is more structured and better synchronized.

As always, high-class, thoughtful, effective, and above all, satisfying. Tuna belly with caviar and herb chantilly: wonderful delicacies, perfectly done with hardly any frills, and flawless results. Delicious! A legend of the establishment is the cup of spiny lobster stew: for drowning oneself in a popular soup, and to give life to the wisdom of an Escoffier for the third millennium. For more spark, equal precision and similar pleasure, try the sea cucumber and bacon bundles filled with asparagus and served with assorted mushrooms. Another hit is the vegetable risotto, which in springtime is leafier and greener… naturally irresistible. And respectable, or better yet, downright praiseworthy is the suckling pig, roasted and stewed depending on the part, accompanied by the always well-received cap i pota (stewed calf’s head and foot) and a superb mixture diced of pineapple and apple with puree.

On the menu, the great flagships that have blessed these tables are proudly displayed. First, the embarrado (stewed) kid, which melts in your mouth and saturates it with intensity, is another excellent tribute to regional cuisines. The second, the Norway lobsters with artichokes, potatoes, bacon, caramel… immaculate and gourmand. A third, the whole wild turbot in its own juice has two great qualities: the size of the fish (between seven and ten kilos) and the impeccable doneness which augments its juiciness and flavor. And so many details that add up, such as the bread, in the form of millefeuilles, the world-class tray of cheeses, and the ice creams, with vanilla taking first chair. And the truffles, white and black, and the grouse, and the woodcock, and the Llavaneres peas.

A five-star restaurant. Palatial.