Apple and forgotten tubers in acidic, crispy, creamy and frozen preparations with mustard sandwich

Martín Berasategui
Chef: Martín Berasategui
Country: Spain
City: 20160 Lasarte-Oria (Guipúzcoa)
Address: Loidi, 4
(+34) 943366471

The fact that Martín Berasategui is a perfectionist who constructs his work from a standpoint of reforming history and reinventing himself does not mean that he is not a creator. His personal style and life philosophy is not based on radicalism or exaggerations. He is a true evolutionist, carefully imagining, subordinating his ideas to the results, which, in his case, are always extraordinarily refined and balanced. He almost never tries to impress his guests with pairings that express strong, sapid juxtapositions. On the contrary, he tempers his contrasts, sweetening them, making them subtle… bringing the nuances together in harmony. Gastronomic diplomacy.
Another example of his culinary personality is found in this extremely elegant and original dish whose main characters are played by vegetables. Remember that Martín was awarded the Reyno Gourmet prize in the II Congress “Viva las Verduras” in Pamplona, Spain, for his professional work with vegetables, especially for the consistent use of liquefied sauces and his development of the flat salads, whose historic testimony we find in the vegetable marrow with shellfish salad. On this particular occasion, he gives a forward push, offering us a formula of tubers, celeriac, Jerusalem artichoke and salsifies, presented in various manners: chopped, as a cream, frozen…
In short, the base of the dish appears coated by an apple jelly. He tops this with a vertical structure of rye bread filled with mustard chantilly that takes the shape of a sandwich. To the side, the cream of the three tubers is intercalated with cubes of celeriac, Jerusalem artichoke balls and cylinders of salsifies, along with a quenelle of ice cream made from all the tubers, adorned with sweetened crispy versions of the same vegetables. The ornamentation is completed with a few drops of seaweed vinaigrette and assorted sprouts of broccoli and amaranth.



The Recipe



Ingredients

Tuber cream

  • 50 g celeriac
  • 50 g Jerusalem artichoke
  • 50 g salsifies
  • 75 g milk
  • 75 g cream
  • 5 g celery salt

Tuber ice cream

  • 400 g tuber cream
  • 125 g egg yolk
  • 30 g sugar
  • 20 g sherry vinegar
  • Dash of celery salt

Tuber cubes

  • 100 g tuber cubes, 1 x 1 cm
  • 20 g clarified butter

Mustard chantilly

  • 50 g fresh cream
  • 5 g Savora mustard
  • 10 g Pommery grain mustard

Seaweed vinaigrette

  • 100 g codium seaweed
  • 30 g oil
  • 2 g salt
  • 5 g vinegar

Meringue

  • 100 g egg whites
  • 50 g confectioner’s sugar

Rye bread toast

  • 10 thin slices of rye bread
  • 20 g clarified butter

Apple jelly

For each liter of infusion, use 2 g agar-agar. For the agar-agar mixture, heat 10% of the infusion to a gentle boil and add the agar-agar. Mix in the rest of the infusion that should be at 35ºC/95ºF.

Green apple infusion

  • Juice of 1 lemon
  • 5 green apple, liquefied

 

 

Method

For the cream:

Cut the tubers into 3 x 3 cm cubes
Cook with the milk and cream for 25 minutes.
Move to the Thermomix then strain through a sieve.
Salt to taste.

 

For the ice cream:

Beat the egg yolks with the sugar
Add the cream and sherry vinegar and adjust the salt.
Heat to 80ºC/176ºF.
Cool quickly.
Place in a Pacojet mold.

For the cubes:

Sweat the cubes in butter until they are sautéed but al dente.

For the chantilly:

Lightly whip the cream and add the two mustards.

For the vinaigrette:

Soak the seaweed in water for 1 min first.
Blend in the Thermomix and pass through a fine sieve.
Add the oil, salt and vinegar to this puree.

For the meringue:

Beat the egg whites to peaks, add the confectioner’s sugar, beat for 2 more minutes and bake in the oven at 60ºC/140ºF.

For the toast:

Using two flat gastronorm trays, grease the parchment paper with butter and arrange the sliced bread (cut at number 1 on the meat slicer).
Toast the bread in the oven, topped with another tray, for 15 min at 140ºC/284ºF.

For the infusion:

In a bowl where we will put the green apple juice, add the juice of 1 lemon followed by the 5 strained apples, freshly pressed, and stir. Move to an empty 1.5 liter water bottle, close tightly and put in the freezer with the cap down.

When it is half frozen, in other words, when the impurity of the green apple has frozen but the liquid is still fluid, strain through a cloth so that we obtain a completely clean liquid and all the impurity has been removed.

FINISHING

On a plate, starting with the set apple jelly, add the following:
2 toasts topped with 1 cc of mustard chantilly, one on top of another like a sandwich, pressed down to flatten.
To the side, arrange the tuber cream and intercalate 2 cubes of celeriac, 2 Jerusalem artichoke balls and 2 salsify cylinders. Over one of the cubes, 1 coffee quenelle of tuber ice cream supported by sugar crisps.
Finish with 1 cc of seaweed vinaigrette and assorted sprouts of broccoli and amaranth.

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