The Alsace, a beautiful and little known region.

This part of France, sui generis in European history, has belonged to both France and Germany at different times. According to the will of the invader or champion of war, the Alsatian people were obliged to change their nationality back and forth. Today, luckily enough for the locals, the Alsace region is French. The majority of the population is Gallic, in both heart and soul.
Strasbourg, an intellectual and economic metropolis, is the most important city in the region. This “European capital” since 1949 is home to the Council of Europe. The incredible red-stone cathedral in the historic district, as spectacular as it is impressive, dates to the 11th century. The astronomical clock, built by a local artist in 1838, attracts a good many visitors as well, and the part of the city referred to as “Petite France” is a beautiful, original place, wonderfully preserved, located on the shores of the Ill river.
To the south of the city there are a great number of wineries and charming villages that are worth visiting: Obernai, Bergheim, Ribeauville, Riquewihr, Kayserberg, Ammerschwir, until arriving to the old city of Colmar, an architectural jewel of the 17th and 18th centuries. Even further south, one shouldn’t miss Eguisheim, Turkheim and Rouffach, with a splendid castle there that has been converted into a hotel. The wineries that produce Alsatian white wines are the most important in France. They cover a surface area of more than 13,000 hectares, equaling a yearly production of more than 100 million bottles.
Though hard to understand, these exceptional wines are for some reason underestimated outside of the region. The only explanation for this mystery could be the ordinary character of the majority of these wines, the lack of interest that a good number of them tend to spark – a similar occurrence to what happens with many of the Bourgogne wines. Nonetheless, if you choose well out of the numerous recent producers who scrupulously control their vines, you can find incredible jewels among them. The Rieslings, especially from those made by the most serious vintners, equal or better some of the Bourgogne whites. Moreover, the reasonable prices of the Alsatian wines make the others suddenly less attractive.
The region also produces exceptional fortified wines. There are two kinds: the “vendanges tardives V.T.” (late harvest) and the “selection de grains nobles S.G.N.”. These latter are the noble wines of the famous Sauternes zone in Bordeaux. They are among the best dessert wines in France and, for that matter, the entire world. They harmonize perfectly with the local specialty, cold foie gras pâté, or its hot version, as well as beautifully accompanying certain deserts such as fruit tarts and “crema catalana”, among others. They also pair well with blue cheeses such as Roquefort, Bleu de Bresse or gorgonzola.
The Alsace is a land of gourmets. One only need open a Michelin guide to see that the region is littered with establishments, including three award-winning restaurants with the highest honors: three stars. Two of them undoubtedly deserve it: Buerhiesel, in Strasbourg, and L’Arnsbourg, one of the best in France, close to Baerenthal, about 70 kilometers north of Strasbourg, but we’ll get to that soon enough. The third, L’Auberge de l’Ill, near Illerhausern, though traditional and located in a charming setting, has certain gastronomic characteristics that lean more towards a two-star rating. The region also has four other restaurants with two stars.
At the heart of a beautiful pine forest, in a town called Untermuhlthal, rather impossible to pronounce but close to the German border, we visited L’Arnsbourg. At the beginning of the last century, the grandfather of the current owners already worked in what was at the time a modest establishment, proposing a simple, regional cuisine that was most likely excellent because Michelin had already awarded the good man with a star.
In 1983, Cathy and Jean-Georges Klein took over the restaurant. Their rise to gastronomic glory was slow and late to be recognized. However, in 1998 Klein finally saw the work and effort come to fruition: they were awarded with a second Michelin star. The third didn’t take long to arrive: just four years later, in 2002.
The entrance to the restaurant has a mysterious feel – a red door, a dark bar, enormous leather chairs and below, the wine cellar looms. The first impression is one of a pervading calmness in the establishment, a certain immeasurable serenity. There is no direct lighting. Arriving to the dining room, one instantly remarks on the immensity of the room. Clearly and elegantly rustic, it almost seems to be planted directly into nature, to be a part of it. The lighting, also indirect, only illuminates the center of the table. Personally, I had the impression of being completely isolated from the outside world.
The chef displays evident mastery: the genius of Ferran Adrià, of El Bulli. Klein takes inspiration from the Spanish chef to create his own, delicate French cuisine. One might qualify him as an “aggressive chef”. He takes risks. He likes contrasts. He always wants to push the envelope a little further. The cuisine is a mixture of classical and modern techniques. When he has an idea for a new dish, he creates it. Experimenting is everything. But he knows what he needs to change or what should be left the way it is.
His system seems to work because the results are excellent. As we shall now see…
To begin, a few tapas, beautifully presented and adorned: celery marinated in fruity olive oil, a splendidly creamy duck liver pâté served on toasted bread, crowned with a crispy green asparagus tip ad quail egg with ginger sauce.
The first dish left us gastronomically amazed: dough-less asparagus tart, seasoned cream and a spoonful of oscetra caviar – a sensational combination on the palate. Next, they brought us perfectly cooked langoustines with eucalyptus cream and a sea urchin “frappé” – a grandiose and delicious creation.
The red mullets with bouillabaisse-perfumed potato puree were prepared with such simplicity as to exalt their natural flavor and bouquet – a great dish indeed. The two creations that followed were typical El Bulli style: parmesan spaghetti carbonara (Adrià 2001) and carrot air with citrus sauce (Adrià 2003). As for their flavor, both were very close to the preparations of the master.
The lacquered duckling was tender and delicious, accompanied by an enticing “tarte tatin” of endives aromatized with orange and coriander seeds.
Just before dessert, another of Klein’s splendid creations arrived: a potato emulsion, or rather a potato cappuccino, with truffles. It was an incredibly elegant, refined and light way to finish off the savory part of the meal.
We ordered the cheeses because the “affinés” of master Bernard Anthony are absolutely mandatory here. All of them were marvelous, especially the harder ones.
The same goes for the desserts – delicious. A juicy, powerful and phenomenal dark chocolate tart, served warm with grated Tonka bean on top.
To finish, wild raspberries, astonishingly fragrant, served with a creamy yoghurt sorbet.
Cathy, who oversees the service, is synonymous with charming, always ready to help, to give suggestions and to satisfy the guests.
What are the principal and greatest marks of Klein’s cuisine? Flavor, sapid elegance and refinement.
Regardless of the distance and difficulty of the journey, do not deprive yourself of this experience; the restaurant has an exclusive enchantment all its own and the dishes they serve are definitely worth the trip. Though hard to believe, considering how out of the way it is, the L’Arnsbourg is always booked solid.
Another lovely quality of the house is that it is probably the cheapest three-star restaurant in France and one of the few French eateries with this highest ranking that actually deserves it.
The Kleins have also just finished construction on a small hotel next to the restaurant called “Hotel K”, with 12 large rooms available (50 square meters). The experience offers total immersion in the forest – tranquility, nature and a marvelous gastronomic stay make for a complete holiday.
A final note of interest: Klein opened his restaurant “Baerenthal” in Sapporo, Japan, at the end of 2004.