Located next to the Naviglio Grande in a trendy and casual place, aimed at the general public, this tavern is in fact a gastrobar or bistro with a rustic touch that proposes all kinds of dishes that are generally evolutionary, sometimes creative or even techno, executed by Matías Perdomo, marked by his stay at Martín Berasategui’s and at El Celler de Can Roca, and helped by another famous restless mind. You can have a mix (misto) of the traditional Italian pork meats (salami, glass of black pig, 24-month cured Parma ham), finish the feast with some mustard of honey and pear, taste some delicious Benedetto Cavalieri spaghetti –the very best regarding intrinsic quality– served with a simple and exquisite tomato sauce, or enjoy the very slowly baked squid, slightly smoked with saffron threads. The prices also vary a lot: some guests chose a single dish, while others spend two and a half hours at the table to enjoy six creations of the chef. This is one of the keys of his resounding success.
The “ox sashimi”, worthy of resounding celebrations, is in fact a 2-millimeter-thick carpaccio of old Spanish cow that rimes with fleshiness, taste, sublime product (no freezing) and that is gloriously accompanied with slices of foie gras, Béarnaise sauce, plum purée and black sesame which contribute to the evident succulence of the dish. The soft grilled potato gnocchi, synonymous with utterly delicate consistency and rustic aroma, served with grilled courgette, red prawns, tomato hearts and sprouts reflect the concepts and the meticulousness of this sensible and open-minded chef. The hard grain spaghettonni of the glorious brand Benedetto Cavalieri, really al dente, enhanced with baby squids, toasted breadcrumbs, anchovy oil, garlic, olive oil and hot pepper, can be considered as a small masterpiece for its “elementarity”. Another top dish is the risotto, consistent and creamy, worthy of modern young and inhibited people who dare it all, impregnated with charcoal aromas and generously enhanced with steamed veal marrow and caviar. The baked Iberian pork clear plate, pink and buttery, very tasty, lain over some burrata cream with sea urchins and tarragon, is a successful show of flavours and contrasts. The dessert is a quite funny prank: a bottle of Campari filled with a subtle goat cheese cream, pearls and jelly of the bitter drink.
