L´Escaleta

The house keeps on improving, gradually. Founded in 1980 by Paco Moya and Ramiro Redrado, supported for a while –and about to be relieved– by their sons Kiko, in the kitchen, and Alberto, in the dining room and in the cellar, the restaurant has conserved its original spirit and has been breathed fresh air, erudition and personality into. L’Escaleta had never offered such a good food and drink before nor had it earned so many merits and good results. That’s why it undoubtedly deserves a better mark again, reaching 8,5/10. Evolutionary haute cuisine with personal style. Inventiveness and love of his land are really evident in the exquisite frozen slice of garlic with crunchy pericana, inspired by Adrià’s version made with Parmesan cheese. The herbs from the Mariola Mountain that is in front of the restaurant perfume and refresh an unprecedented and aerial fat. Both appetizers make the difference. The spherification made of seaweed and seaweed juice is a bit more universal and in line with the fisheye trend; palatal intensity and tactile delicacy. The chef’s personality and savoir-faire are expressed through minimalist, brilliant and peaceful constructions such as the cow cottage cheese, creamy and singular, impregnated with magic and clearly defined touches: extra virgin olive oil, honey and fresh almonds (see Great Dishes). Kiko’s potential has no limits nor frontiers, as shown through the beet tartare combined with pickles, strawberries and roses; a dish that rimes with impressive chromatism and palatal complexity, considering the big variety of components. If you have any doubt about the genius of the artist, just taste the egg yolk marinated in salt and soya, a variation of Carlo Cracco’s technique which leads to intense flavours and to a dense creaminess that conflicts with its heartbreaking seasoning. The hake cheeks, juicy and gelatinous, accompanied by potatoes and an extremely refined garlic and pepper sauce, are really glorious. The slightly smoked eel with its toasted skin and its delicious gelatinous meats, served with carob sweet, is a fascinating reinvention of populism, a real gourmandise. The rice dishes served in individual paellas are tremendous, too, like the one with rabbit and escargots, the most successful. This time, we were particularly impressed by the cuttlefish riso nero, proposed with a deep and tasty broth made with the cephalopod around the rice that considerably preserves its flavour. The lamb ribs with grilled aubergine and lavender honey are synonymous with unprecedented nobility, magnificent technique and exciting nuances. Discover or rediscover the most ancestral dishes of the house. Among the local tastes, you can find the black and white squid sausage with exotic and warm infusion of coconut and ginger with bay leaf blades; the delightful red prawn crusted with citrus salt; and the red mullet lain on a creamy almond cake with saffron gold. For more cosmopolitan proposals, try the oyster with aired soda water of white asparagus and aromatic touch of Szechuan pepper; or the pigeon breast cut in big pieces arranged on a layer of Venere rice soaked with a deep broth which reinforces the cereal without altering its identity.