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Palacete Rural La Seda


Ostra Gillardeau con infusión de ajos y gelatina de jamón
Paco Fuentes
Pays: Spain
Localité: 30162 Santa Cruz (Murcia)
Adresse: Vereda del Catalán, s/n
(+34) 968870848
Jours de fermeture: Sunday
Prix à la carte: 70 / 100 €
Prix menu de dégustation: 55 y 68 €


Paco Fuentes, gourmet and hotel manager, hotel manager and gourmet, has been able to materialize a unique project in the Spanish catering sector. A palace aimed at luxury and art located amid countryside whose cuisine is characterized by artistic connotations. Metaphorically speaking, we could suggest Murcia’s government to subsidize such a project, because what is proposed here is the local cuisine in all its essence and even more, yet the house has no territorial limits.
The kitchen is run by José Carlos Fuentes, who proposes calculated, reflexive and erudite dishes based on excellent products, impeccably done, reinforced with silky and harmonic sauces and contrasts. The proposals are always seasoned with a rigorous originality, which is more scientific than artistic. Although rigor and efficiency prevail, the chef’s constructions turned to be witty, full of talent; a talent that frankly takes the guests’ opinion into account. Authenticity, depth, intelligence, common sense...
The menu is improving year after year. A trend that the following sensible, elaborate and brilliant dishes can’t but confirm: Gillardeau oyster lain on a delicate infusion of roasted garlic, covered with a very thin ham jelly and subtly garnished with nori seaweed and citrus. As noble, precise and enjoyable is the cuttlefish, served amid warm tagliatelle, almost raw, just slightly cooked –immaculate, utterly tasteful– with two brushstrokes (cuttlefish liver mayonnaise and ink of the animal) and two contrasts: the greasy touch of chiquillos (fresh pork skin coated with spices and fried), and a sweet-and-sour hint of mango. The turbot, brimming with gelatin, overflowing with flavour, amid salicornia and spinach, toasted corn powder and spinach reduction, is a real masterpiece; perfect combination and execution. The red prawn in two versions is glorious: sautéed with soy, garlic and parsley sauce plus Raf tomato roasted at 100ºC and served with Calasparra rice soaked with the juice of the animals’ heads. And the unforgettable moments go on and on: foie gras with burnt aubergine, rye earth and wild chards; roe deer filet with beet chutney and violet potatoes; Segureño lamb cooked into fig leaves, accompanied by gingerbread with honey and young figs…
The more we come, the more we enjoy. A good reason to increase the mark, isn’t it?