Francis Paniego decided to serve only two tasting artistic menus that, at the request of the guests, can be completed with one of the historical popular specialties of the house that are served at El Echaurren hotel next by.
The chef’s talent, knowledge and vocation are clearly expressed by the impacting goat milk’s cheese with sprouts lain on a translucent green pepper veil; a demonstration of refinement, sensitiveness and technique. The meal goes on following a similar line with country flavours that are synonymous with local land and minerality; unbelievable. The asparagus –vacuum-cooked at 65º for 6 hours– proposed with St. George’s mushrooms mayonnaise and slices (or another variety, according to the season), shoots and coffee aroma have already become a classical dish. Another example of naturality and reaffirmation of the cook’s style is the half mushroom, also cooked at low temperature (for 25 minutes), grilled and wonderfully arranged on the plate together with a lively tonality and taste of basil, fresh garlic, spring onion and julienned pear. This fresh vegetal cuisine has other brilliant representatives, such as the baby peas with hot yolk, potato spheres, ham, mushroom slices and flowers. Or such as the proposal called “Mediterráneo”; a daring and pertinent combination of very sensitive characters put together in perfect harmony: mashed cucumber, yoghurt cream, grated fresh almonds, green apple ice cream, onion sprouts, bread and olive oil. An incontrovertible construction, because of the raw materials and the exquisiteness they give out, is the crayfish with marinated and then roasted with pig ear, blood sausage, crayfish consommé and tips of green asparagus.
All this creative cuisine must not hide the legacy Francis received from his parents, Marisa and Félix, legendary guesthouse owners from La Rioja region. Here are some exceptional basic dishes you may not miss: the ham croquettes; the caparrones (red beans); the lamb’s trotters; the veal tripe and snout a la riojana, among other delicacies, which always invite you to come back to Ezcaray, a place where cuisine transmits the human warmth of a genuine family. And don’t forget to taste the most delicious coated hake on earth, confited at 45ºC and served with peppers and a light rice soup!
