9

Calima


Palomita nitro
Dani García
Pays: Spain
Localité: 29602 Marbella (Málaga).
Adresse: Hotel Puente Romano. Bulevar Principe Alfondo von Hohenlone, s/n
(+34) 952764252
Jours de fermeture: Sunday, Monday and from 10th October to the beginning of april
Prix à la carte: 100/225 €
Prix menu de dégustation: 65 y 148 €


Dani García is making Andalusian cuisine’s history. He was the forerunner of haute cuisine in the region, its major master and by far the one who raised it to avant-gardism and showed it around the world. This real symbol has brought a new era. He has become a reference for all the young cooks of the planet. Apart from being able to design a galactic version of timeless popular flavours, he reinvented almost all the historic recipes using the most modern concepts and means. He embodies “technoflamenco”, a show he proposes every evening in an utterly luxurious setting, in front of the beach, overhanging the most attractive seafront of the city. The whole Marbella longs to get a table in this world-class restaurant.
Dani gives spectacular forms to all he touches, trying to impact the guests. He is a faithful reflection of the culinary trends that have been prevailing for the last decade. Nobody will forget the liquid nitro popcorn he introduced in Spain: a frozen popcorn with a neat taste of olive oil and tomato; really amazing. His ability to combine proximity and remoteness together with the elegance and harmony that are hidden in each construction, however complex and innovative they are, is also evident in the foie gras and yuzu turrón (kind of nougat). Whether the proposals are innovative, evolutionary or conventional, the use of technique is permanent. The Egg without egg is a personal version of a trendy recipe. The idea is to place some lychee jelly on the bottom of the shell to create floral aromas. The foil ball hides a mojete filled with anchovy stew. And the broken croquette with taste of cuttlefish is a rustic touch of the reviewed philosophy.
The dishes to be eaten with a spoon are raised to an incredible refinement, as proved by two delightful “stews”: water lilies with quail egg, brimming with floral hints; and shark flipper from Ronda, a bit heavier. The cold soups have always been there and always will. They are now proposed in a more complex way, such as the Raf tomato stuffed with pipirrana (tomato, onion and pepper salad), deliciously garnished with barnacles; or like the ajoblanco cream, served with caviar and fresh almonds. And what can we say about some Dani’s fetishes like the young hake, magnified with an original béarnaise, and the young rabbit, transformed into a substantial game dish…