Is Galician-style turbot better than grilled turbot? We have never had that feeling, and indeed have never heard it voiced. What we have heard, a thousand-and-one times over, is how wonderful the new potatoes were and how well done the ajada garlic, paprika and oil sauce was. But the fish itself, however gigantic and fresh it may, however thick its skin and fat layer, however perfect the timing of the cooking, and notwithstanding any other virtue it may have, has never prompted praise, let alone exclamations of admiration.