In de Wulf

Kobe Desramaults
Kobe Desramaults
Country: Belgium
City: B-8951 Dranouter-Heuvelland
Address: Wulvestraat, 1
(+32) 057445567
Closed: Mondays and Tuesdays
Price: 80/140 €
Tasting menu:: 65,75, 85, 95 €

  • Mejillones con algas, levístico y flores
  • Mejillones con algas, levístico y flores
  • Esferas de alubia de coco con jamon ibérico
  • Esferas de alubia de coco con jamon ibérico

Kobe Desramaults is the greatest strength emerging from Belgian cuisine. After training with legendary Dutch chef Sergio Herman, he returned – at 23 years of age – to his maternal grill-house, which was little more than a family restaurant located in the middle of the countryside, far from the city noise, 40 km outside of Lille, and began to gradually transform it to the point of converting it into charming rustic establishment with an undeniable and growing gastronomic impact. By believing in himself, demonstrating the capacity to withstand the test of time, profiling an intelligent strategy and practicing a rigorous approach far from the norm, he has received, in just three years, important public success and the recognition of the Benelux press who see him as their future ‘number one.’ And the experience of dining at his restaurant makes one wholeheartedly agree – to have reached the point he has, in such little time, and at a mere 26 years old.
Kobe has clear ideas, convinced of what he wants to be, he focuses on the most interesting chefs, studying the most recent trends, using the latest technology and, something which is vital to his career, he has the capacity to assimilate and demonstrate a criteria all to his own. He is searching for a style, and his dishes allow a glimpse of a personal style; expressing clarity. With regard to both flavor and color he possesses an innate gift of good taste. The complexity of flavors are expressed without being excessively weighed down. Perhaps he could, or even should, focus more on the essence of his articulations a little – it’s a just question of time. The truth is that he spares neither effort nor elements when it comes time to constructing his compositions – compositions that are always imaginative and beautiful, even dazzling. Curiously enough, being a cuisine that looks so much to the culinary vanguard, one that is so dedicated to the art of gastronomy, it projects, without exception, easy, assimilable, delicate and harmonious flavors. Eccentric contrasts are not permitted. In accordance with the simplicity and reflective capacity that characterizes the cuisine, its goal is to convince more than to impact.
The tasting menu is very long yet, dish after dish, he maintains a notable regularity – something which speaks volumes of the character and consistency of the chef. There are brilliant moments, such as the golden foie gras: cream bathed in gold with nitro pearls of corn. Immaculate and very southern: the anchovies marinated in salt, served semi-raw over a tomato brunoise, which has also been marinated, with ice cream and olive oil “sprinkles.” The mussels with seaweed, lovage, celeriac, apple, flowers and a broth laden with marine flavor constitutes an exaltation of nature and purity. The creamy spheres of coco beans with Iberian cured ham, pork stock with browned garlic, green hazelnuts, crispy quinoa and a dusting of the legume… a symphony of nuances expressed with supine balance. The red mullet with sea snail risotto confirms the virtuosity of the chef, as does the Anjou squab: perfectly lacquered with cabernet sauvignon vinegar syrup, the meat truly juicy and tender, adorned with cubes of beet, glazed spring onions and wild mushroom, among other details.
In short, a young chef with impetus, will, ideas, clairvoyance… called upon to distinguish both himself and gastronomy on a whole.